While most Chinese dishes are quite tasty, the diet leaves some to be desired in the way of dairy products (which are nonexistent beyond aloe-flavored yoghurt, tasty though it may be) and MSG-free food. Jessica and I were having cravings for cheese, so we decided to get fondue, a real Swiss fondue with Emmenthaler and Gruyere. We googled the Swiss embassy and called them to ask for a recommendation, and they suggested Morel's, a Belgian restaurant in Liangmaqiao near the US Embassy. We invited a few friends to join us, and set out for a fondue adventure!
The restaurant was a bit further of a walk from the subway station than we originally anticipated, so everyone was putting up a stink and whinging about the length of the walk. We did finally find the place, so we had built up a good appetite at that point.
The fondue was everything we wanted it to be, cheesy, delicious and thick. The fondue came with a really yummy salad as well, so we did get our vegetables in. Ben and Panos ordered a sausage dish to dip in the cheese as well, so everyone got their meat in who wanted it. At the end, I had some fresh strawberries and whipped cream to finish it off. Jess and I even met the owner, Monsieur Morel, who was flattered that we had enjoyed his fondue so much.
Afterwards we took a cab to Houhai to walk around the lake and have a few beers, but we called it off pretty early. It was a very filling night!
Sunday, April 5, 2009
Saturday, April 4, 2009
In Chinese, the Word for Panda is 熊貓, or "Bear Cat"
Saturday dawned relatively clear and sunny once again, so we decided to head to the Beijing Zoo to see the pandas. Jessica is OBSESSED with pandas, so this promised to be a real treat for her. We also got to explore a different part of the city that we don't normally visit, the Xicheng district, which is south of Haidian, where we are living. To get to the zoo, we took our trusty Line 10 to transfer at the station where the Wal-Mart Supercenter is, and headed south on the light rail Line 4. We got off at the end of the line, and asked for directions to the zoo (now I can add "zoo" to my burgeoning Chinese lexicon, zoo is "dongwuyuan"). We were walking against a tide of thousands of people departing the zoo, who were easily recognizable as many of them carried inflatable toys in the shape of exotic animals (plus Mickey Mouse). We were pleased that so many people were leaving the zoo at this time.
The entrance fee for students is a mere 8 yuan, plus an extra 5 yuan for the panda enclosure, making the Beijing Zoo a pretty good deal. The place was packed with families--Jessica and I have been enjoying the pretty quiet, child-free nature of Beijing but the zoo was most certainly NOT child free. There were kids everywhere, mostly under the age of 10, and the butt-slit count was at an all time high (some kids in China do not wear diapers, instead have a slit in their pants that allows their bottoms to swing free in the breeze and assault your eyelids, and allows them to just do their business right there on the side of the road). Most of the kids are pretty cute, and it's sort of funny to see their bums hanging out, but it's not that pleasant to be in the vicinity when a kid has to do #2 right next to you!
The panda enclosure was a real treat, as the zoo has about 5 pandas currently there. We got to see pandas engaging in many activities, such as eating, sleeping, sitting and wandering around. For someone who's been to zoos where there are only two or three pandas max (if the panda couple have a baby) this was quite exciting. Jess and I got a good laugh out of the fact that 熊貓 means "bear cat" in Chinese, which is a very apt. name. Little kids also got a lot of enjoyment out of shouting "熊貓! 熊貓!" and other such clever things.
The zoo has high points and low points. Other high points included the monkey enclosure, the kangaroo pen and then giraffe pen. Those are nicely designed, new and look appropriate for the animals. The big cat house was very sad and depressing, it was your stereotypical blank, concrete cells with just bars on the front. The cats didn't look very happy, just bored. It also smelled horribly like cat pee (to be expected). We had to leave because it was just too depressing. The elephant pen was also mostly blank, just concrete walls and a large sandy floor.
After the zoo we went to a nearby market, but it was closing up shop so we went home. Overall it was a fun day, and certainly worth it for the pandas alone. Even though a panda at another Chinese zoo recently mauled a man for climbing into the enclosure, they were still very cute and fun to watch.
The entrance fee for students is a mere 8 yuan, plus an extra 5 yuan for the panda enclosure, making the Beijing Zoo a pretty good deal. The place was packed with families--Jessica and I have been enjoying the pretty quiet, child-free nature of Beijing but the zoo was most certainly NOT child free. There were kids everywhere, mostly under the age of 10, and the butt-slit count was at an all time high (some kids in China do not wear diapers, instead have a slit in their pants that allows their bottoms to swing free in the breeze and assault your eyelids, and allows them to just do their business right there on the side of the road). Most of the kids are pretty cute, and it's sort of funny to see their bums hanging out, but it's not that pleasant to be in the vicinity when a kid has to do #2 right next to you!
The panda enclosure was a real treat, as the zoo has about 5 pandas currently there. We got to see pandas engaging in many activities, such as eating, sleeping, sitting and wandering around. For someone who's been to zoos where there are only two or three pandas max (if the panda couple have a baby) this was quite exciting. Jess and I got a good laugh out of the fact that 熊貓 means "bear cat" in Chinese, which is a very apt. name. Little kids also got a lot of enjoyment out of shouting "熊貓! 熊貓!" and other such clever things.
The zoo has high points and low points. Other high points included the monkey enclosure, the kangaroo pen and then giraffe pen. Those are nicely designed, new and look appropriate for the animals. The big cat house was very sad and depressing, it was your stereotypical blank, concrete cells with just bars on the front. The cats didn't look very happy, just bored. It also smelled horribly like cat pee (to be expected). We had to leave because it was just too depressing. The elephant pen was also mostly blank, just concrete walls and a large sandy floor.
After the zoo we went to a nearby market, but it was closing up shop so we went home. Overall it was a fun day, and certainly worth it for the pandas alone. Even though a panda at another Chinese zoo recently mauled a man for climbing into the enclosure, they were still very cute and fun to watch.
Friday, April 3, 2009
Hawaiian Culottes, Cuban Lounge Singers and Naked Time: 浪淘沙 Bathhouse
After getting back from the Great Wall, Jess and I were tired, grubby, and sick of our tiny hotel shower. We decided to check out a Chinese bathhouse, which we read about in our super awesome guidebook, "The Insider's Guide to Beijing." There were only a few listed in the guidebook, however, so we took to the internet to get more research. The term "bathhouse" certainly brings up some seedy connotations so we wanted to make sure we went somewhere legit and women friendly. I put a post up on the Beijinger.com asking for recommendations and someone put up a link to this place, 浪淘沙 or Langtaosha. It did say that it's on the more expensive side, but it was clean and friendly and that sounded perfect to us.
We took a cab and went in to the opulent lobby. The desk girls spoke some English, so we were able to figure out the cost (188 yuan) which included shower, spa, sauna, steam room and buffet dinner. Extra treatments are additional cost, as well as massages, private VIP rooms and alcohol. We were pretty desperate for a bath so we said yes, lead us to the showers!
Upon entry, each person is issued your standard Chinese style molded plastic slippers (one size fits most, not me however; ladies get pink and gentlemen get white and blue) and you go to the locker room and change. Er, rather, you strip off all your clothes, throw them in a locker with a unique key that you keep the whole time and get bathing. They did have Hello Kitty wraps which I used as a towel (oops) but this is definitely a clothing free zone. The bathing areas are single sex, so it was just Jess, myself and a bunch of Chinese ladies. There were about 5 other women in the bathing area with us, some younger and some older. Everyone first takes a shower before getting into the soaking tub, shampoo, soap, conditioner and even toothpaste and packaged toothbrushes are provided. They also provide shower caps if you want.
After the shower we went in the soaking tub for a while, which was sort of lukewarm, and then the steam room. Jess decided to get a "body scrub", which entailed a woman taking a fresh scrubby mitt to Jess's body and essentially rubbing off a layer of skin. According to Jess, this woman left no part of her body unscrubbed (hilarious). These ladies (attired in employee issue black bra and black granny panties set) also can give you a la carte oil rubs, cupping, sugar scrubs, milk baths and other things that I didn't know in Chinese (only some things provided English translation, and the translation wasn't great, i.e. "Ginger scrub to vitalize the area"). Next time we come back I think I will try one of the scrubs.
While Jess was getting her skin rubbed off, I sat around in the sauna and the soaking tub, plus did a number on my feet with a pumice stone. They have the little sit-down (you sit on a polished marble cube) showering stations for use after the steam room, sauna or scrub treatment. The decor inside the bathing area is classic nouveau riche tacky, sparkly tile, huge fake flower displays, marble and gold. It kind of looks like the pleasure planets that the Starship Enterprise visits on the original Star Trek, when they didn't have that much money for sets. The place was clean, however, and the staff friendly (even though they hang over your shoulder in the locker room, which is sort of odd). After some sauna and more soaking, Jess and I decided to hit up the buffet. We were issued some incredibly unflattering culotte scrubs with a loud Hawaiian print. We also got some pink granny panties to wear. Everything was one size fits all, so they were more bermuda shorts style on me of course.
The buffet was on the 4th floor (unsure what was on 2 and 3) and was coed. We passed by people getting clothed massages, as well as a lot of people lounging around on chaise longe chairs watching movies on flatscreens with headphones. Everyone is in the little culotte outfits. The men had a slightly different Hawaiian print. There were also a few families around.
The buffet was pretty expansive, with seafood delicacies (I stuck to the boiled head-on shrimp), fried cicadas, meats, veggies, cold dishes, steamed dumplings, various baos, hand pulled noodles and soups. They also had a delicious dessert tray with many bean stuffed delicacies and a really tasty tapioca soup that Jess and I snarfed. The clientele in the dining room was about 75% male, 25% female. There were no foreigners at all. We got some bemused looks, but no stares. There were quite a few businessmen making business deals, smoking and drinking. The dining area also featured a lounge singing act, with a very sharply dressed Chinese man playing the piano, a bored looking Chinese singer, and a white girl singing. Jess and I were fascinated by her, and we wondered what brought her to China to work in a Chinese bathhouse. When she started singing some Shakira songs, we realized she must be from a Spanish speaking country because her accent was excellent. We made sure to clap enthusiastically when she finished her songs, which she appreciated.
After the buffet, we went back to the bathing section to re-bathe, since it was smoky in the dining area. While we were in the shower, the lounge singer came in and said hi to us, clearly having recognized us from earlier. We were chatting and it turned out she was from Cuba. Jess was very excited to hear this, since Jess went to Cuba recently while doing her semester abroad in Mexico. The lounge singer said she came to China 4 years ago to work, and that she works 6 days a week, for only 3 hours at the bathhouse, but this is the only place she works. Jess and I later discussed it and we figured that there must be some sort of additional "work" she does, if you know what I mean. These bathhouses, even the most high-class ones, have special services for gentlemen clients--it's standard operating procedure in pretty much all Asian countries.
We had such a fun time at the bathhouse we definitely plan to go back. We will likely go during the day, however, to take advantage of the 1/2 price special. One can even spend the night at the spa and stay until 5pm the next day, not a bad deal--all you can eat buffets included! They have beds available either dormitory style or private room (private rooms cost extra, of course). Since we only would take advantage of the buffet and wash area, that stuff didn't appeal to us. It was a perfect, relaxing end to a sweaty and active day!
We took a cab and went in to the opulent lobby. The desk girls spoke some English, so we were able to figure out the cost (188 yuan) which included shower, spa, sauna, steam room and buffet dinner. Extra treatments are additional cost, as well as massages, private VIP rooms and alcohol. We were pretty desperate for a bath so we said yes, lead us to the showers!
Upon entry, each person is issued your standard Chinese style molded plastic slippers (one size fits most, not me however; ladies get pink and gentlemen get white and blue) and you go to the locker room and change. Er, rather, you strip off all your clothes, throw them in a locker with a unique key that you keep the whole time and get bathing. They did have Hello Kitty wraps which I used as a towel (oops) but this is definitely a clothing free zone. The bathing areas are single sex, so it was just Jess, myself and a bunch of Chinese ladies. There were about 5 other women in the bathing area with us, some younger and some older. Everyone first takes a shower before getting into the soaking tub, shampoo, soap, conditioner and even toothpaste and packaged toothbrushes are provided. They also provide shower caps if you want.
After the shower we went in the soaking tub for a while, which was sort of lukewarm, and then the steam room. Jess decided to get a "body scrub", which entailed a woman taking a fresh scrubby mitt to Jess's body and essentially rubbing off a layer of skin. According to Jess, this woman left no part of her body unscrubbed (hilarious). These ladies (attired in employee issue black bra and black granny panties set) also can give you a la carte oil rubs, cupping, sugar scrubs, milk baths and other things that I didn't know in Chinese (only some things provided English translation, and the translation wasn't great, i.e. "Ginger scrub to vitalize the area"). Next time we come back I think I will try one of the scrubs.
While Jess was getting her skin rubbed off, I sat around in the sauna and the soaking tub, plus did a number on my feet with a pumice stone. They have the little sit-down (you sit on a polished marble cube) showering stations for use after the steam room, sauna or scrub treatment. The decor inside the bathing area is classic nouveau riche tacky, sparkly tile, huge fake flower displays, marble and gold. It kind of looks like the pleasure planets that the Starship Enterprise visits on the original Star Trek, when they didn't have that much money for sets. The place was clean, however, and the staff friendly (even though they hang over your shoulder in the locker room, which is sort of odd). After some sauna and more soaking, Jess and I decided to hit up the buffet. We were issued some incredibly unflattering culotte scrubs with a loud Hawaiian print. We also got some pink granny panties to wear. Everything was one size fits all, so they were more bermuda shorts style on me of course.
The buffet was on the 4th floor (unsure what was on 2 and 3) and was coed. We passed by people getting clothed massages, as well as a lot of people lounging around on chaise longe chairs watching movies on flatscreens with headphones. Everyone is in the little culotte outfits. The men had a slightly different Hawaiian print. There were also a few families around.
The buffet was pretty expansive, with seafood delicacies (I stuck to the boiled head-on shrimp), fried cicadas, meats, veggies, cold dishes, steamed dumplings, various baos, hand pulled noodles and soups. They also had a delicious dessert tray with many bean stuffed delicacies and a really tasty tapioca soup that Jess and I snarfed. The clientele in the dining room was about 75% male, 25% female. There were no foreigners at all. We got some bemused looks, but no stares. There were quite a few businessmen making business deals, smoking and drinking. The dining area also featured a lounge singing act, with a very sharply dressed Chinese man playing the piano, a bored looking Chinese singer, and a white girl singing. Jess and I were fascinated by her, and we wondered what brought her to China to work in a Chinese bathhouse. When she started singing some Shakira songs, we realized she must be from a Spanish speaking country because her accent was excellent. We made sure to clap enthusiastically when she finished her songs, which she appreciated.
After the buffet, we went back to the bathing section to re-bathe, since it was smoky in the dining area. While we were in the shower, the lounge singer came in and said hi to us, clearly having recognized us from earlier. We were chatting and it turned out she was from Cuba. Jess was very excited to hear this, since Jess went to Cuba recently while doing her semester abroad in Mexico. The lounge singer said she came to China 4 years ago to work, and that she works 6 days a week, for only 3 hours at the bathhouse, but this is the only place she works. Jess and I later discussed it and we figured that there must be some sort of additional "work" she does, if you know what I mean. These bathhouses, even the most high-class ones, have special services for gentlemen clients--it's standard operating procedure in pretty much all Asian countries.
We had such a fun time at the bathhouse we definitely plan to go back. We will likely go during the day, however, to take advantage of the 1/2 price special. One can even spend the night at the spa and stay until 5pm the next day, not a bad deal--all you can eat buffets included! They have beds available either dormitory style or private room (private rooms cost extra, of course). Since we only would take advantage of the buffet and wash area, that stuff didn't appeal to us. It was a perfect, relaxing end to a sweaty and active day!
Goodness, Gracious, Great Walls of Fire!
The T-birds had our last group sightseeing activity today, we went to the Great Wall at Mutianyu. We all piled into the tourbus and departed Beida for the 2 hour drive to the wall. I was tired, so I snoozed until we got to the countryside near the wall. Interestingly, all the villages in the area have built up these large, tacky restaurants to cater to Chinese tourists visiting the wall. I'm sure no foreign groups stop there, but they get plenty of local tourists in need of dining in a huge, fake rainforest.
Luckily the wall was not too crowded, despite the large parking lots which are no doubt filled up in the summer, and the usual gauntlet of hawkers selling t-shirts, fake silk robes, and the like. Mutianyu has not one but two cable cars that take you up and down, and even has an alpine slide luge thing (sans ice of course) to bring out back down. There is the traditional stairs option, but Jess, Mike, Vidya and I opted for the cable car since we were not feeling the one hour stairs ascent. As Franklin pointed out, once you climb the stairs TO the wall, you still have to hike UP it!
The wall was not too crowded, except for this horribly loud school group on a field trip. They were all running around and screaming, which was behavior more fit for smaller kids rather than high school age. My comment was, "Apparently all the one children have decided to come to the wall today!"
When we got to the wall, we had the option to go to the right, to the slide, and downhill, or to the left, which was uphill quite a ways but appeared to offer a great view. We opted for left.
The restored wall is much as I remember it, well kept up but with a few potholes and broken steps here and there. Mostly Chinese tourists, although I did see a smattering of laowais, and there was a huge pack of British charity hikers walking the wall to raise money for injured firefighter's families. The pictures I took made it seem like the wall was emptier than it really was. It was still pleasant though, to have a strenuous hike (the last hill was about a 50 degree incline, according to one of our classmates) and be in warmer weather. It was much more comfortable at the wall, noticeably warmer than Beijing.
It was a hazy day (or polluted?) so it wasn't a clear blue sky, but the cherry blossoms were starting to come out so the vistas were still pleasant. We got to the high point to find it clogged with the loud student group. One student asked to take a photo with me (do they think I'm famous?) and another showed me the little garter snake he bought for 10 yuan.
We headed back and had to hang on to the wall at times because the descent was so steep! My thigh muscles were very tired by the end. We thought about walking to the slide to ride it down but opted for the cable car instead. We made it through the gauntlet of hawkers (same old hard sell, but some new items, such as furry hats, which I resisted because it's getting warmer here, white fox skins and parasols) and had lunch on the bus.
We drove back to Beijing and I slept the whole way; I was quite tired! Overall Mutianyu is a pleasant place to visit, but only in the off-season I think. With the ease of access, too many people can come up and I could see it being very crowded in the summer. Die hards seeking solitude are better off at the more remote locations.
Luckily the wall was not too crowded, despite the large parking lots which are no doubt filled up in the summer, and the usual gauntlet of hawkers selling t-shirts, fake silk robes, and the like. Mutianyu has not one but two cable cars that take you up and down, and even has an alpine slide luge thing (sans ice of course) to bring out back down. There is the traditional stairs option, but Jess, Mike, Vidya and I opted for the cable car since we were not feeling the one hour stairs ascent. As Franklin pointed out, once you climb the stairs TO the wall, you still have to hike UP it!
The wall was not too crowded, except for this horribly loud school group on a field trip. They were all running around and screaming, which was behavior more fit for smaller kids rather than high school age. My comment was, "Apparently all the one children have decided to come to the wall today!"
When we got to the wall, we had the option to go to the right, to the slide, and downhill, or to the left, which was uphill quite a ways but appeared to offer a great view. We opted for left.
The restored wall is much as I remember it, well kept up but with a few potholes and broken steps here and there. Mostly Chinese tourists, although I did see a smattering of laowais, and there was a huge pack of British charity hikers walking the wall to raise money for injured firefighter's families. The pictures I took made it seem like the wall was emptier than it really was. It was still pleasant though, to have a strenuous hike (the last hill was about a 50 degree incline, according to one of our classmates) and be in warmer weather. It was much more comfortable at the wall, noticeably warmer than Beijing.
It was a hazy day (or polluted?) so it wasn't a clear blue sky, but the cherry blossoms were starting to come out so the vistas were still pleasant. We got to the high point to find it clogged with the loud student group. One student asked to take a photo with me (do they think I'm famous?) and another showed me the little garter snake he bought for 10 yuan.
We headed back and had to hang on to the wall at times because the descent was so steep! My thigh muscles were very tired by the end. We thought about walking to the slide to ride it down but opted for the cable car instead. We made it through the gauntlet of hawkers (same old hard sell, but some new items, such as furry hats, which I resisted because it's getting warmer here, white fox skins and parasols) and had lunch on the bus.
We drove back to Beijing and I slept the whole way; I was quite tired! Overall Mutianyu is a pleasant place to visit, but only in the off-season I think. With the ease of access, too many people can come up and I could see it being very crowded in the summer. Die hards seeking solitude are better off at the more remote locations.
Thursday, April 2, 2009
Laverne & Shirley, Beijing Style [Jessica & Ginger's Adventures in Chaoyang]
Part I: My Tax Dollars At Work!
I plan to travel to Cambodia and Vietnam after the Beijing program ends, so I knew I would need to get more visa pages because both those countries use full page visa stickers. Luckily, getting new visa pages at the US Embassy in Beijing is incredibly easy! You can make a reservation online, so Jess and I signed up for 3PM and 3:30PM respectively. The embassy is located convenient to Liangmaqiao Station on the 10 line, which is the same one that is near our hotel. We hopped on after finishing up some accounting work, and made our way to the embassy. The embassy is located in a cluster pod of many other embassies; we saw South Korea, Germany, Brunei Darussalam and Israel. The US Embassy is a brand new modern glass and concrete monstrosity, not a shocker there. To reconfirm my print out map, I asked a policeman for directions and he gave me very clear and helpful ones--I'm glad that Mike and I went over a directional dialogue last week! It's been very helpful in cabs and in walking around the city.
Getting into the US embassy was surprisingly pleasant and easy. You do have to go through a metal detector and surrender your cell phone, but the staff are helpful and friendly and the process is very smooth. It's very different from the US consulate in Cape Town where you get the nth degree of inspection and questioning. The x-ray revealed a USB flash drive in my wallet which I had forgotten, but it was politely pointed out and I put it in my little tray along with my cell phone.
There was no line at American Consular Services, again a total surprise how easy and friendly this whole process was. I had to fill out a form (typical US Gov't, the form is two pages long, the first page is instructions and is removed and thrown away afterwards--seems like you could take one set of instructions, laminate it, and hand it out! Oh well...) which required my local address and my US address. I wrote out my hotel address in Chinese, thinking I was being helpful, but then was told by the consular services lady that I couldn't write it in Chinese. She went through a lot of rigamarole whiting it out with the little tape white-out thingy, which ran out so she had to find more! While she was looking, another woman came over to investigate the delay and crossed out the remaining Chinese characters, but my lady came back and insisted on whiting out the rest! Bureaucracy!
Jessica also needed new visa pages, but her passport is so old and tattered that they refused her request! Her passport is one of the old ones with the laminated photo page, and the lamination is separating and you can access the photo at one point. No wonder they didn't want to add more pages. The consular services lady suggested that Jessica apply for a renewal passport right here in Beijing. Here's the secret, people, renew all your passports overseas! It costs less ($75) and takes way less time, only 7-10 days. You keep your old passport, and then when you get the new one you just take it to a local office and request a visa transfer. No big deal! Jess opted to get the renewal, so she had to run over to a conveniently located photo shop across the street from the embassy.
Sidebar: Jessica wore her Obama YES WE CAN shirt to the embassy. This morning she asked me, "Do you think it will be weird if I wear my Obama shirt to the embassy?" I responded with, "Uh, I can't think of a more appropriate place to wear your Obama shirt!" So, her passport picture has an Obama shirt and the consular ladies really appreciated it.
So, new passport applied for Jess and I got my visa pages (the super tacky new pages that are FUGGGGGGG-LY!) all for just a 2 Yuan subway ride from our hotel! Bonus!
Outside the embassy we ran into a bīngtáng húlù (冰糖葫芦) vendor and finally decided to dive into this springtime Chinese candy delicacy. Bingtang hulu is candied hawthorn on a stick, often combined with strawberries or baby oranges. It's coated in sugar syrup so it's not good for your teeth, but MAN it tastes good! A full hawthorn one is only 1 yuan, the hawthorn/clementine one is 2.50. Hawthorn is sort of like a crab apple, but sweeter, and a little bit squashier. It's the primary ingredient in Haw Flakes, my favorite Chinese flake candy, as well as the more mysteriously named "Haw Soup", which is like fruit leather, individually wrapped (mysteriouser and mysteriouser). I want to eat one every day, which I would if it weren't sugar central. Jess and I hopped on the train to Sanlituan, to go back to Yashow market to get some faux jeans.
Part II: Down the Rabbit Hole of Bag Fakery
Yashow, if you recall, is the enormous 6 floor market next to Sanlituan Village (check out the real goods there, then head to Yashow for the knockoffs) that Jessica and I visited last week. We didn't buy anything because we were completely overwhelmed, but we felt prepared and better equipped this time. We first looked at some jeans stalls, and I found a nice pair of True Religion brand that were long enough and looked decently real. My problem in China is that there aren't any dryers so my jeans in particular are getting stretched out. I wanted to get some crappy knock-offs here so that I can beat them up and not worry about wearing out my good ones. I bargained down the lady to 250 Yuan, which is a huge savings on the US cost, which is about $250 and up!
We were tired and needed a pickmeup, so we went to a Mexican restaurant and ate some delicious burritos. Food was surprisingly authentic and tasty, although they did not give you endless chips and salsa, which I felt was sort of stingy. This is China after all! I guess I can't complain about the Mexican food. We were just pleased they allowed Jessica to order a bean quesidilla instead of a meat one.
After eating our fill at the Mexican place, we went back to Yashow to find more jeans. Jess wanted to go downstairs to look at sneakers, however, because she wanted to get some comfortable ones for the Great Wall hike the next day. The bottom floor of Yashow is all shoes and bags, so we were kind of browsing around when this very energetic shopgirl called us in and started showing us these really fake looking Prada bags. She was irrepressibly cute, but totally giving the hard sell "You like, you like, I give you best price!" She showed us that the Prada bags were real leather by waving a lighter over the surface of the bag--it didn't catch! She then took a fake leather bag and actually lit it on fire (melting and smoking!). She was really funny. Jessica asked her if she had any LV or Louis Vuitton bags, because she has been looking for the Neverfull bag for a long time. The shopgirl promised that she did have LV, and showed us one bag that wasn't actually the Neverfull, and it looked OK, not amazing. Her boss came over in the middle of our discussion, and after listening to use go on about better quality, he gave her the key to a storage room and told her to take us there. We got very excited, as we knew that the better quality fakes would be in the storage room.
She took us to the basement of the market, and opened the door to a room full of fake bags! LV, Prada, Chanel, Coach, Bally, everything was in there. She showed Jessica the large size Neverfull, but Jessica wanted the small one. While we were poking around and kind of dithering, the boss showed up with a black trash bag and pulled out a really spectacularly real-looking medium Neverfull. When compared to the fake large we were looking at, it had many differences. The lining was correct, the leather details were right, the printed monogram canvas was a better color, this was totally either "off the back of a truck" or "extra production runs at night" quality stuff. We bargained quite a bit and settled on 1500 yuan for the bag. Expensive yes, but the real one costs $700.
I had asked the boss if he had a specific Gucci bag that I've had my eye on for a couple of years, ever since I went to a tour of the Gucci store in LA. When I asked him about the Gucci again, he said, "OK, you come with me." He took us to a different secret room on the 6th floor of the market, this one was crammed full with more of the "fake" (yet real??) bags like Jessica's. He showed me the Gucci bag and it was impressive. Real black leather, correct lining, metal and bamboo accents all authentic looking. Having handled the bag in the store myself, I know what the real one looks like and this one was essentially the same thing. After a lot more bargaining (all this was done in Chinese, by the way), we settled on 1700 yuan. Spendy, yes, but I figured I deserved it, especially after landing an internship in January as well as getting a 3.875 GPA last module. I was even able to put it on my credit card (which I pay off every month, duh).
Jessica and I were high on our success, so I told the man that we had many friends who wanted to also buy bags. He gave me his number and told me to call him anytime for bags. I will likely go back in a few days with another classmate who wants to buy a bag for his girlfriend.
Jessica did manage to pick up a pair of shoes for the Great Wall (fake Converse sneakers, very cute) and used the old "I only have this much money" trick, but this time it was real! We were exhausted at this point, and decided to go back to the hotel.
Part III: A Light at the End of the Supermarket Tunnel
On the way back (lugging our illicit loot in a huge black plastic trash bag) we remembered that we needed to bring breakfast and lunch for the Great Wall tomorrow. We toyed with the idea of going to Carrefour, but that was too painful to contemplate. Instead, we opted to check out the Wal-Mart Supercenter three stops before our hotel stop. That station is where we change trains to go to Wudaokou, so we had seen the English language signs for Wal-Mart. Luckily the store is right next to the station, and there is a handy exit marked "Wal-Mart Supercenter".
Wal-Mart in China is fabulous. It's large, spacious, has helpful and friendly staff and very low prices. The food section in particular is very Chinese style, with all manner of dried and fresh odd vegetables, meats and other produce for sale (giant dried carp, sliced in half and hanging as well as turtles and deep fried baby ducklings). We stocked up on some bread, apples, kiwis, cheese and peanut butter. We made it to the checkout line but got in trouble with the checkout lady because we hadn't weighed our fruit downstairs in the produce section so as to get the sticker (they don't do it at the cashier like in the US--I should have remembered this from Croatian supermarkets). Luckily, the cashier told me I could cut the line once I got back with the fruit, so I ran off, let the fruit ladies weigh my fruits and put a little sticker on them (Job creation! This is China!) and then made it back to the cashier.
Jess and I FINALLY made it back to the hotel after a very long day. We let Hunter Kim inspect our illicit merchandise, since he's very in to luxury goods, and he gave them the thumbs up, said they looked really good. Also on the way back on the subway, we sat next to a girl with a large Neverfull that was either real or Jessica's quality fake. We also looked on the Gucci and LV websites and couldn't see anything on our bags that were a tipoff of fakery. All in all it was a day that started out crappy thanks to Accounting, and then got much, much better!
I plan to travel to Cambodia and Vietnam after the Beijing program ends, so I knew I would need to get more visa pages because both those countries use full page visa stickers. Luckily, getting new visa pages at the US Embassy in Beijing is incredibly easy! You can make a reservation online, so Jess and I signed up for 3PM and 3:30PM respectively. The embassy is located convenient to Liangmaqiao Station on the 10 line, which is the same one that is near our hotel. We hopped on after finishing up some accounting work, and made our way to the embassy. The embassy is located in a cluster pod of many other embassies; we saw South Korea, Germany, Brunei Darussalam and Israel. The US Embassy is a brand new modern glass and concrete monstrosity, not a shocker there. To reconfirm my print out map, I asked a policeman for directions and he gave me very clear and helpful ones--I'm glad that Mike and I went over a directional dialogue last week! It's been very helpful in cabs and in walking around the city.
Getting into the US embassy was surprisingly pleasant and easy. You do have to go through a metal detector and surrender your cell phone, but the staff are helpful and friendly and the process is very smooth. It's very different from the US consulate in Cape Town where you get the nth degree of inspection and questioning. The x-ray revealed a USB flash drive in my wallet which I had forgotten, but it was politely pointed out and I put it in my little tray along with my cell phone.
There was no line at American Consular Services, again a total surprise how easy and friendly this whole process was. I had to fill out a form (typical US Gov't, the form is two pages long, the first page is instructions and is removed and thrown away afterwards--seems like you could take one set of instructions, laminate it, and hand it out! Oh well...) which required my local address and my US address. I wrote out my hotel address in Chinese, thinking I was being helpful, but then was told by the consular services lady that I couldn't write it in Chinese. She went through a lot of rigamarole whiting it out with the little tape white-out thingy, which ran out so she had to find more! While she was looking, another woman came over to investigate the delay and crossed out the remaining Chinese characters, but my lady came back and insisted on whiting out the rest! Bureaucracy!
Jessica also needed new visa pages, but her passport is so old and tattered that they refused her request! Her passport is one of the old ones with the laminated photo page, and the lamination is separating and you can access the photo at one point. No wonder they didn't want to add more pages. The consular services lady suggested that Jessica apply for a renewal passport right here in Beijing. Here's the secret, people, renew all your passports overseas! It costs less ($75) and takes way less time, only 7-10 days. You keep your old passport, and then when you get the new one you just take it to a local office and request a visa transfer. No big deal! Jess opted to get the renewal, so she had to run over to a conveniently located photo shop across the street from the embassy.
Sidebar: Jessica wore her Obama YES WE CAN shirt to the embassy. This morning she asked me, "Do you think it will be weird if I wear my Obama shirt to the embassy?" I responded with, "Uh, I can't think of a more appropriate place to wear your Obama shirt!" So, her passport picture has an Obama shirt and the consular ladies really appreciated it.
So, new passport applied for Jess and I got my visa pages (the super tacky new pages that are FUGGGGGGG-LY!) all for just a 2 Yuan subway ride from our hotel! Bonus!
Outside the embassy we ran into a bīngtáng húlù (冰糖葫芦) vendor and finally decided to dive into this springtime Chinese candy delicacy. Bingtang hulu is candied hawthorn on a stick, often combined with strawberries or baby oranges. It's coated in sugar syrup so it's not good for your teeth, but MAN it tastes good! A full hawthorn one is only 1 yuan, the hawthorn/clementine one is 2.50. Hawthorn is sort of like a crab apple, but sweeter, and a little bit squashier. It's the primary ingredient in Haw Flakes, my favorite Chinese flake candy, as well as the more mysteriously named "Haw Soup", which is like fruit leather, individually wrapped (mysteriouser and mysteriouser). I want to eat one every day, which I would if it weren't sugar central. Jess and I hopped on the train to Sanlituan, to go back to Yashow market to get some faux jeans.
Part II: Down the Rabbit Hole of Bag Fakery
Yashow, if you recall, is the enormous 6 floor market next to Sanlituan Village (check out the real goods there, then head to Yashow for the knockoffs) that Jessica and I visited last week. We didn't buy anything because we were completely overwhelmed, but we felt prepared and better equipped this time. We first looked at some jeans stalls, and I found a nice pair of True Religion brand that were long enough and looked decently real. My problem in China is that there aren't any dryers so my jeans in particular are getting stretched out. I wanted to get some crappy knock-offs here so that I can beat them up and not worry about wearing out my good ones. I bargained down the lady to 250 Yuan, which is a huge savings on the US cost, which is about $250 and up!
We were tired and needed a pickmeup, so we went to a Mexican restaurant and ate some delicious burritos. Food was surprisingly authentic and tasty, although they did not give you endless chips and salsa, which I felt was sort of stingy. This is China after all! I guess I can't complain about the Mexican food. We were just pleased they allowed Jessica to order a bean quesidilla instead of a meat one.
After eating our fill at the Mexican place, we went back to Yashow to find more jeans. Jess wanted to go downstairs to look at sneakers, however, because she wanted to get some comfortable ones for the Great Wall hike the next day. The bottom floor of Yashow is all shoes and bags, so we were kind of browsing around when this very energetic shopgirl called us in and started showing us these really fake looking Prada bags. She was irrepressibly cute, but totally giving the hard sell "You like, you like, I give you best price!" She showed us that the Prada bags were real leather by waving a lighter over the surface of the bag--it didn't catch! She then took a fake leather bag and actually lit it on fire (melting and smoking!). She was really funny. Jessica asked her if she had any LV or Louis Vuitton bags, because she has been looking for the Neverfull bag for a long time. The shopgirl promised that she did have LV, and showed us one bag that wasn't actually the Neverfull, and it looked OK, not amazing. Her boss came over in the middle of our discussion, and after listening to use go on about better quality, he gave her the key to a storage room and told her to take us there. We got very excited, as we knew that the better quality fakes would be in the storage room.
She took us to the basement of the market, and opened the door to a room full of fake bags! LV, Prada, Chanel, Coach, Bally, everything was in there. She showed Jessica the large size Neverfull, but Jessica wanted the small one. While we were poking around and kind of dithering, the boss showed up with a black trash bag and pulled out a really spectacularly real-looking medium Neverfull. When compared to the fake large we were looking at, it had many differences. The lining was correct, the leather details were right, the printed monogram canvas was a better color, this was totally either "off the back of a truck" or "extra production runs at night" quality stuff. We bargained quite a bit and settled on 1500 yuan for the bag. Expensive yes, but the real one costs $700.
I had asked the boss if he had a specific Gucci bag that I've had my eye on for a couple of years, ever since I went to a tour of the Gucci store in LA. When I asked him about the Gucci again, he said, "OK, you come with me." He took us to a different secret room on the 6th floor of the market, this one was crammed full with more of the "fake" (yet real??) bags like Jessica's. He showed me the Gucci bag and it was impressive. Real black leather, correct lining, metal and bamboo accents all authentic looking. Having handled the bag in the store myself, I know what the real one looks like and this one was essentially the same thing. After a lot more bargaining (all this was done in Chinese, by the way), we settled on 1700 yuan. Spendy, yes, but I figured I deserved it, especially after landing an internship in January as well as getting a 3.875 GPA last module. I was even able to put it on my credit card (which I pay off every month, duh).
Jessica and I were high on our success, so I told the man that we had many friends who wanted to also buy bags. He gave me his number and told me to call him anytime for bags. I will likely go back in a few days with another classmate who wants to buy a bag for his girlfriend.
Jessica did manage to pick up a pair of shoes for the Great Wall (fake Converse sneakers, very cute) and used the old "I only have this much money" trick, but this time it was real! We were exhausted at this point, and decided to go back to the hotel.
Part III: A Light at the End of the Supermarket Tunnel
On the way back (lugging our illicit loot in a huge black plastic trash bag) we remembered that we needed to bring breakfast and lunch for the Great Wall tomorrow. We toyed with the idea of going to Carrefour, but that was too painful to contemplate. Instead, we opted to check out the Wal-Mart Supercenter three stops before our hotel stop. That station is where we change trains to go to Wudaokou, so we had seen the English language signs for Wal-Mart. Luckily the store is right next to the station, and there is a handy exit marked "Wal-Mart Supercenter".
Wal-Mart in China is fabulous. It's large, spacious, has helpful and friendly staff and very low prices. The food section in particular is very Chinese style, with all manner of dried and fresh odd vegetables, meats and other produce for sale (giant dried carp, sliced in half and hanging as well as turtles and deep fried baby ducklings). We stocked up on some bread, apples, kiwis, cheese and peanut butter. We made it to the checkout line but got in trouble with the checkout lady because we hadn't weighed our fruit downstairs in the produce section so as to get the sticker (they don't do it at the cashier like in the US--I should have remembered this from Croatian supermarkets). Luckily, the cashier told me I could cut the line once I got back with the fruit, so I ran off, let the fruit ladies weigh my fruits and put a little sticker on them (Job creation! This is China!) and then made it back to the cashier.
Jess and I FINALLY made it back to the hotel after a very long day. We let Hunter Kim inspect our illicit merchandise, since he's very in to luxury goods, and he gave them the thumbs up, said they looked really good. Also on the way back on the subway, we sat next to a girl with a large Neverfull that was either real or Jessica's quality fake. We also looked on the Gucci and LV websites and couldn't see anything on our bags that were a tipoff of fakery. All in all it was a day that started out crappy thanks to Accounting, and then got much, much better!
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Put Me In, Coach! (Chinese-Style Massage)
Something I forgot to add from last week, Jessica is a big massage fan so we decided to get a massage at Hezi Massage in Wudaokou. Mike had gone a few days before and gotten a foot massage, but it also included neck and shoulder massage as well. When Jess and I got to the place, we looked at their offer list and it only offered foot massage for 68 yuan for 80 minutes, or full body for 80 yuan for 60 minutes. We opted for the full body since we wanted to spend only an hour.
We had to put on these little scrub outfits, which consisted of some really unflattering length culottes (sort of Bermuda shorts length) with a little thong thing in the middle (we opted to keep our underwear on) and a kimono top (literally: it included a waist tie). We were in the same room together, so our masseuses came in together. There was a man and a woman, and I ended up with the man. In retrospect, it probably would have been better if I had had the woman, but more on that later.
Let me try to describe what a Chinese massage is... somewhat like Chinese medicine, if it's unpleasant and mildly painful at the beginning, then it will no doubt be inversely beneficial later on. The massage was vigorous, very active and totally hilarious to me because I've never gotten a professional massage before and was very ticklish.
The massage starts with head and neck massage (vigorous, poking, prodding and rubbing) and then moves to your shoulders. They also do a lot of joint and limb manipulation, involving having a stranger wave your arm around in various odd directions at a pretty high speed. They also do palm and finger massage, which is sort of odd feeling. There was a stomach rub component which did not work on me because I was so giggly, so my guy moved right on to the leg massage, which also made me giggle. There was more join manipulation involving hilarious hip contortions. Seriously, this massage made me feel like I was part of the Chinese Olympic wrestling team and that I was being prepped for the big meet.
We were then flipped over and had our backs worked on (vigorously, of course). There were times when the guy was using his elbow on my back and seemed like he was putting almost all his weight on me. At no time was the massage ever painful or injurious, but it was close. I also wanted to laugh the whole time, because I basically paid to be manhandled by a total stranger. The silly outfits did not help the situation.
The next day I was a little sore, but the day after I was fine. I don't think I would say this was particularly relaxing, although Jessica loved it and wants to go back. I think I will try a spa next time, maybe one of the hot springs places in the mountains around here or something like hot stone massage. Seems like that would be more soothing, as opposed to Rocky IV level of Soviet joint manipulation. On the plus side, I do kind of feel like Dolf Lundgren: "I vill break him."
We had to put on these little scrub outfits, which consisted of some really unflattering length culottes (sort of Bermuda shorts length) with a little thong thing in the middle (we opted to keep our underwear on) and a kimono top (literally: it included a waist tie). We were in the same room together, so our masseuses came in together. There was a man and a woman, and I ended up with the man. In retrospect, it probably would have been better if I had had the woman, but more on that later.
Let me try to describe what a Chinese massage is... somewhat like Chinese medicine, if it's unpleasant and mildly painful at the beginning, then it will no doubt be inversely beneficial later on. The massage was vigorous, very active and totally hilarious to me because I've never gotten a professional massage before and was very ticklish.
The massage starts with head and neck massage (vigorous, poking, prodding and rubbing) and then moves to your shoulders. They also do a lot of joint and limb manipulation, involving having a stranger wave your arm around in various odd directions at a pretty high speed. They also do palm and finger massage, which is sort of odd feeling. There was a stomach rub component which did not work on me because I was so giggly, so my guy moved right on to the leg massage, which also made me giggle. There was more join manipulation involving hilarious hip contortions. Seriously, this massage made me feel like I was part of the Chinese Olympic wrestling team and that I was being prepped for the big meet.
We were then flipped over and had our backs worked on (vigorously, of course). There were times when the guy was using his elbow on my back and seemed like he was putting almost all his weight on me. At no time was the massage ever painful or injurious, but it was close. I also wanted to laugh the whole time, because I basically paid to be manhandled by a total stranger. The silly outfits did not help the situation.
The next day I was a little sore, but the day after I was fine. I don't think I would say this was particularly relaxing, although Jessica loved it and wants to go back. I think I will try a spa next time, maybe one of the hot springs places in the mountains around here or something like hot stone massage. Seems like that would be more soothing, as opposed to Rocky IV level of Soviet joint manipulation. On the plus side, I do kind of feel like Dolf Lundgren: "I vill break him."
Accounting Quiz: I Call Shenanigans!
This morning we were supposed to have an accounting quiz from 9-10am. There was some confusion about where we were supposed to go to take the quiz, as the professor (who is teaching it online from Glendale) told us to go to our classroom on the Beida campus, but we were trying to explain to the professor that about 2/3 of the class has not signed up for internet access in the classroom, as it is through Beida and costs 100 yuan. To further complicate matters, those who did sign up for internet only had the chance to sign up yesterday, and that signup time conflicted with beginners Chinese class so some people weren't able to complete their signup.
Professor Peterson, the accounting professor, seemed to be having a major disconnect--despite the fact that several of us repeatedly explained that we don't have internet in the classroom and don't care to pay extra to sign up for it (especially when we have free internet in the hotel and at a nearby Starbucks), he still kept telling us to go to the classroom. The last posting on the class board from him said that he had worked out with Donny that a Beida representative would be in the classroom to walk us through the internet setup.
Jess and I took a cab to the classroom so that we would have extra time to study in our hotel room. The cab cost 10 yuan. We got to the room and it was packed with students. Our classroom fits everyone, but just barely, and you have to sit right next to someone else at a table. The situation is not optimal for taking a quiz in the slightest. Jessica and I purchased a power strip at an electronics store so that we could both plug in during class and I'm glad we did--there aren't enough power plugs to go around in the classroom for 35 people to all be plugged in and charging.
We sat around for about ten minutes but no Beida proctor showed up. Everyone was talking and complaining, so it was very loud for the few students who had internet and opted to start the quiz. Hunter Kim, one of my classmates, finally called Professor Peterson over Skype and explained the situation. Peterson, who was still operating under the extreme misapprehension that we would 1) have a proctor and 2) have internet access proposed the following ridiculous solution to the problem:
Students currently with internet (9) finish the quiz, students without internet go and wait in the hallway until they are done, and then let those waiting use their computers to finish the quiz.
As you might imagine, there was a near riot when everyone heard this. We eventually talked him into extending the time the quiz would be available online and letting us go home to take the quiz either at the hotel or Starbucks. His rationale for forcing us to be in the classroom was that he wants to cut down on cheating as the quizzes are closed book, closed notes. However, his logic is flawed because with all of us crammed into one room, cheating would be very easy since everyone can see the computer screens of those sitting in front of them. Furthermore, Thunderbird has an honor code that we all signed, so what is the point of having an honor code when we aren't trusted to uphold and enforce it? Our Regional Business Environment: Asia exam is being administered online and is also closed book, closed notes, and yet Professor Goddard trusts us to be able to do this on our own, online, and not crammed into the classroom.
To use accounting language, the cost of the internet is 100 Yuan, and we have three quizzes left. That means the activity cost of each quiz is approximately Y33.33. That's a pretty decent meal at a nice restaurant. If we factor in the indirect overhead costs of transportation and the power cord, it's approximately Y75 per quiz. RIP OFF!
Some students are planning to email Professor Peterson and discuss the issue with him, hopefully he will see reason and let us take the damn quizzes from home. Some are also proposing that he score this quiz as optional (if it helps our grade, leave it in, if it hurts our grade, take it out) since it was such a disaster this morning to administer.
New "This is China" update: I just got a phone call from Mike Logan who went to the police station register himself as a foreigner renting a apartment in Beijing. He had to go with his landlord, who presents a special landlord ID to the police in order to register his tenants. It's very typically bureaucratic. However, it turns out that as an alien renting an apartment, Mike was supposed to register within 24 hours of signing the lease! He wasn't fined (although he could have been fined 500 yuan for ever day he neglected to register) but he did have to sign a form that acknowledges he violated Chinese law, essentially a warning. Yikes! I myself had to register through the hotel, but since I'm not renting it's less of a panic for the local precinct. This is China!
Professor Peterson, the accounting professor, seemed to be having a major disconnect--despite the fact that several of us repeatedly explained that we don't have internet in the classroom and don't care to pay extra to sign up for it (especially when we have free internet in the hotel and at a nearby Starbucks), he still kept telling us to go to the classroom. The last posting on the class board from him said that he had worked out with Donny that a Beida representative would be in the classroom to walk us through the internet setup.
Jess and I took a cab to the classroom so that we would have extra time to study in our hotel room. The cab cost 10 yuan. We got to the room and it was packed with students. Our classroom fits everyone, but just barely, and you have to sit right next to someone else at a table. The situation is not optimal for taking a quiz in the slightest. Jessica and I purchased a power strip at an electronics store so that we could both plug in during class and I'm glad we did--there aren't enough power plugs to go around in the classroom for 35 people to all be plugged in and charging.
We sat around for about ten minutes but no Beida proctor showed up. Everyone was talking and complaining, so it was very loud for the few students who had internet and opted to start the quiz. Hunter Kim, one of my classmates, finally called Professor Peterson over Skype and explained the situation. Peterson, who was still operating under the extreme misapprehension that we would 1) have a proctor and 2) have internet access proposed the following ridiculous solution to the problem:
Students currently with internet (9) finish the quiz, students without internet go and wait in the hallway until they are done, and then let those waiting use their computers to finish the quiz.
As you might imagine, there was a near riot when everyone heard this. We eventually talked him into extending the time the quiz would be available online and letting us go home to take the quiz either at the hotel or Starbucks. His rationale for forcing us to be in the classroom was that he wants to cut down on cheating as the quizzes are closed book, closed notes. However, his logic is flawed because with all of us crammed into one room, cheating would be very easy since everyone can see the computer screens of those sitting in front of them. Furthermore, Thunderbird has an honor code that we all signed, so what is the point of having an honor code when we aren't trusted to uphold and enforce it? Our Regional Business Environment: Asia exam is being administered online and is also closed book, closed notes, and yet Professor Goddard trusts us to be able to do this on our own, online, and not crammed into the classroom.
To use accounting language, the cost of the internet is 100 Yuan, and we have three quizzes left. That means the activity cost of each quiz is approximately Y33.33. That's a pretty decent meal at a nice restaurant. If we factor in the indirect overhead costs of transportation and the power cord, it's approximately Y75 per quiz. RIP OFF!
Some students are planning to email Professor Peterson and discuss the issue with him, hopefully he will see reason and let us take the damn quizzes from home. Some are also proposing that he score this quiz as optional (if it helps our grade, leave it in, if it hurts our grade, take it out) since it was such a disaster this morning to administer.
New "This is China" update: I just got a phone call from Mike Logan who went to the police station register himself as a foreigner renting a apartment in Beijing. He had to go with his landlord, who presents a special landlord ID to the police in order to register his tenants. It's very typically bureaucratic. However, it turns out that as an alien renting an apartment, Mike was supposed to register within 24 hours of signing the lease! He wasn't fined (although he could have been fined 500 yuan for ever day he neglected to register) but he did have to sign a form that acknowledges he violated Chinese law, essentially a warning. Yikes! I myself had to register through the hotel, but since I'm not renting it's less of a panic for the local precinct. This is China!
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