Today might be termed our adrenaline day as we engaged in all manner of pulse-pounding activities. Our day started off early as I had an appointment to take a microlight flight on the Zambian side of the river. We met our van at the no-mans land on the other side of the Zimbabwean border station and were driven to the other side of the bridge. The sun was finally out after two days of high, thick clouds so we had a lovely view of the mist generated from the falls. We bought a single entry visa to Zambia for $30; African passports do not need a visa (another reason I need to get in on my clever Swaziland passport scheme).
We were driven through Livingstone, Zambia to the airfield which is outside of town and upriver a ways. We had a lovely view of the back of the falls with a rainbow above. I expected Zambia to look much more prosperous than Zimbabwe but it looked much the same. The roads had many potholes and the road signs were faded.
The airfield offered microlight and helicopter flights. A microlight is basically like a hang glider with a small motor. The aircraft is controlled by a horizontal bar held by the pilot. To turn, one pushes the bar right or left and the wings dip accordingly. I was given a quilted unisuit to put on to keep me warm, as the pilot and passenger just sit on open seats with no wind break or other protection. Sadly, the uni was much less Top Gun as more of a giant, baggy snow suit type thing.
The microlight is quite efficient, one pilot lands and the passenger gets out, and then the next passenger is assisted in. I was given a pair of headphones and a helmet so I could communicate with the pilot. I was strapped in with a seatbelt and off we went! To take off, the pilot lifted the bar and the ascent was quite swift. As we flew off, I could see some elephants feeding on some trees just past the end of the runway.
We headed over the Zambezi above the falls and saw elephants swimming across the river. They looked like whales to me as I could see their wide backs and little puffs of water as the breathed through their trunks. We came over the falls from the Zambian side and I saw a rainbow that arced from one side to the other--all 1.7km long! The pilot asked me who I would describe the sight to my friends and I said it was indescribable but I will try to do so here. The span of the falls in incredible, at least a mile wide. The water cascades over the edge in enormous frothy sheets and mists billow up from the chasm. After the falls, the gorges head south in a fantastic zigzag pattern. The mist also forms sparkling rainbows that sprung out in the early morning sunlight. We had a perfect view of the border station and the hotel. My pilot pointed out Livingstone Island in the middle of the falls, which is where Devil's Pool is located. In the dry season, the river shrinks to the island and you can hike over and swim in the pool overlooking the drop off. Thebwater level is definitely too high right now for that!
We banked back to get one more view of the falls and did a spiral over it. We then headed back upriver and I got to steer the plane! I put my hands on the bar and turned us left and right. The force required to turn was surprisingly strong. I saw the elephants in the river below again as well as a pod of hippos and an enormous crocodile, at least 5m long, sunning himself on an island in the middle. We came in for a landing and I hopped off, thrilled. I had so much fun that Jimmy decided to go up himself. He is also a commercial pilot so he was quite excited to try it out. When he got back, he was similarly exhilarated and thrilled.
As to the microlight vs the helicopter, I was glad I did the microlight. You have a 360 degree view of everything and you are just up there with the pilot. The downside, however, is that you can't take your camera. It's too windy to take photos anyway and you could drop your camera. They do take photos for you with a camera mounted on the wing and purchasing the photo cd is $20. I did buy it because of the rainbow photos and the elephants. The helicopter allows you to take your camera but you can only take photos out a small window and for the time the falls are on your side. Additionally, there is a helicopter with three seats across so you could end up in the middle with no way to take photos. There are definitely advantages and disadvantages to each. Both are the same price, however.
After we were all safely back on the ground we had the van drop us off at the Victoria Falls park on the Zambian side, which is just next to the border post. My parents had recommended it because of it's superior view of the falls, the knife edge bridge and access to the boiling pot whirlpool. Entry for non locals is $20. We walked along the gorge wall back in the direction of the bridge and had fabulous views of the falls when the mist occasionally cleared. We then headed back and walked down into the gorge to the boiling pot. The first half of the hike is stone steps but when you reach the floor of the gorge it follows a pretty stream past palm trees and small waterfalls. The trail comes out next to the giant whirlpool visible from the bridge. We had a spectacular view of the falls and the bridge. We could see bungee jumpers swinging in the breeze and my stomach clenched a bit to think of myself up there soon enough. We clambered over some rocks to touch the water and found that it was chilly! We also spotted a small crocodile, only three feet long, sunning himself by the edge. Nick tried to get a closer look but the croc spotted him and jumped into the water. We also saw a little monitor lizard who had literally flattened himself on a rock to get more sun. He seemed to have collapsed his ribs to put more surface area in the sun's rays.
We walked back and found it quite warm at the base of the gorge. The hike up the stairs was pretty sweaty. Just below the top we ran into some baboons, one of whom perched on a vine just above the trail. He stared unconcernedly at us as we scampered beneath him, and even flashed some hikers heading down the trail.
We then decided to brave the knife edge bridge that is just behind the falls. I knew that it would be extremely wet so I had brought flip flops and a rain coat in preparation. Nick and Jimmy did not, and try ended up getting crazily soaked. The park cleverly has ponchos for hire so I would recommend it as you will be thoroughly wet by the end.
The knife edge bridge connects the Zambian bank with a rocky promontory that overlooks the falls. It is very narrow and about 25m long and is absolutely bathed in mist and what feels like heavy rain drops. I was incredibly glad for the raincoat! On the other side, the mist and water droplets form a mini tropical rainforest. One can walk on the falls side and all we could see in either direction was thundering white water. The noise of the falls was so loud it made it hard to talk. The mist was so thick that we couldn't use our cameras. We walked all the way to the end and were awed by the incredible view. You could barely see the bridge through the mist and we had brief glimpses of the Zimbabwean side of the falls view as well (it appeared similarly wet also!).
When we emerged back onto dry ground, we were soaking wet. Jimmy and Nick looked like bedraggled cats and I had to use my scarf to towel off. Luckily my coat had kept everything dry, but Jimmy's money and passport, which he had kept in his pockets, were wet through. We must have looked a sight to the Zambian border guard who stamped us out. He teased Jimmy about his wet passport, holding it up like a dead rat and asking, "what happened to this!?" Jimmy answered with, "Victoria Falls happened to it!" which made the guy laugh.
As soon as we hit the no-mans land on the Zambian side of the bridge, the hawkers came out in full force. Jimmy got some copper bracelets for his nieces, but I didn't need any $1 trillion bills or carvings so I passed. I went up to the bungee registration and heard they were closing jumps as the bridge was getting busy (not sure what that really meant, as in people busy or traffic busy) so I piped up that I had prepaid already. Good thing, as I was the last person let on for the afternoon. They weighed me (64kg) and wrote the number on my arm in magic marker. I then walked to the middle of the bridge where a crowd of interested locals and foreigners were watching the fools flinging themselves off the bridge towards the rushing water below.
I had to wait for two people doing the gorge swing to go, plus one more bungee jumper, and then it was my turn. I did inspect the equipment and it was well maintained, in good condition and new. They use a foot harness and a chest/waist harness as backup. The safety briefing was comprehensive and matched what I had been told the last time I jumped back in the US. As sketchy as it sounds to jump off a bridge spanning two developing African countries, I can say that overall the crew did a great job and I was impressed.
I was led up to the edge, which really is right on the side of the bridge, and the handler counted down from five very quickly, not giving me time to back out or falter. He also gave me a helpful push at the back but I was already moving of my own volition. I flung myself out towards the center of the canyon in a swan dive. The Zambezi rushed towards me and I could see a rainbow in the spray with the roar of the falls in my ears. As locations go for a bungee, this was pretty damn amazing. I bounced up and down and swung around and eventually was caught by a staff member and hauled back up to the arc at the bottom of the bridge. I then walked on the walkway underneath back to the Zimbabwean bank and climbed up a short ladder to get back onto the road. It was really interesting to see the underside of this historic landmark. The good news is that it looks to be in decent shape.
I met Jimmy and Nick back at the bungee hut, I was excited and in a good mood. I returned the harness and we walked back to the hotel. After a quick shower and change, we snarfed down some high tea and watched the Germans smash Argentina. Definitely a good day so far! For dinner we will likely go back to Mama Africa and then watch the game in the hotel again.
Saturday, July 3, 2010
Friday, July 2, 2010
Botswana Day Trip to Chobe National Park
Victoria Falls is located near the confluence of four countries: Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana and Namibia. One could count Angola as well, but that's a bit trickier to visit. One of the many popular day trips in the area is to go to Chobe National Park in Botswana to cruisenthe Chobe River and see some of the famously large herds of elephants the park has to offer. I had convinced Nick and Jimmy to join me on this trip since they had never heard of Chobe, but having just returned I think I can speak for all of us when I say that it was a fabulous ay and Im so glad we went!
Our day started off with an extremely hearty breakfast at the Vic Falls buffet. I had some of everything, including a made to order omlette and it was all fabulous. Another standout was the lemon sugar crepes they had as well. We met our transport van at 7:30am outside the hotel and we were whisked away to the border wi Botswana, about 80km away. We drove through a game park on the Zimbabwean side, but did not see any animals besides baboons and a huge bird called a red roller that looks like a toucan crossed with a turkey. We were dropped off at the Zimbabwean border and were met by the tour operator's Botswanan counterparts on the other side of the gate. We had to all walk through a foot and mouth disinfectant bath before officially entering the border station and getting our passports stamped. US passport holders do not need a visa to enter Botswana, which is nice.
Our group was then driven to the Chobe Marina Lodge, which was our base of operations for the day. The lodge is on the bank of the Chobe River, which flows into the Zambezi. We could see Namibia across the river. The lodge was located in a leafy grove full of vervet monkeys. They amused us with their antics as they scampered around. We noticed that some monkeys were missing hands and we learned that was from crocodiles in the river. Yikes!
We took a river boat cruise up the Chobe for the first part of our tour. The boat fit 10 of us and was a flat bottomed houseboat style craft with a 40hp engine and a canvas roof. We passed an island that belongs to Botswana now, but Namibia and Botswana both laid clamp it and the dispute was actually arbitrated by the Hague. An independent investigation revealed that the channel on the Botswanan was considered the "dominant" channel and thus there is now a Botswanan flag planted on the island as buffalo graze and ducks and geese fly nearby.
We saw several Nile crocodiles sunning themselves on the island as well. The crocodiles were about 3m long and had their mouths open. This was my first time seeing crocodiles so I was really excited. We also saw hippos lying in pods, numbering about 20. On the Botswanan bank we saw warthogs, an elephant, monitor lizards and buffalo. The river cruise was a really unique way to view the wildlife and was very pleasant. The river is also a birders paradise. We also got close to about 10 elephants drinking at the bank. They would suck up water in their trunks and then squirt it in their mouths. We were about 20 feet away! Even though it was a bit chilly with the breeze we all thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. Our guide even let us hop off the boat on the Namibian bank, so we have all now been to Namibia unofficially!
On the way back it was much breezier, so I got very chilly. I would highly recommend anyone doing a river cruise bring a warm coat especially if it is not full sun. We spent about three hours on the river and then returned to the lodge for lunch. We were served some tasty food as well as a sumptuous dessert spread. The sun finally came out after we finished eating so I took the opportunity to sit in the sun and warm up before our afternoon drive.
For our afternoon activity we were driven around Chobe National Park by the same guide who piloted the boat for us. Our drive was jam packed wit incredible sightings. We started off with some lions who had just finished a kill! Unfortunately they were about 200m off the road, hiding in some shrubs so we couldn't get that close. Jimmy was estatic, as they hadn't seen any lions in Kruger, but for me having seen a lion kill up close last year it didn't compare. As we drove further towards the riverbank, we saw a herd of elephants numbering about 65! There were females and adolescent elephants and some tiny babies. They were all going to the river to drink as well. We followed them and saw some of them swimming across the river to the other side. It was a crazy sight to see those giant animals gracefully swimming to the other bank!
As we drove on we got close to another elephant pod, this time they were wallowing in a huge mud puddle. Some rolled and others splashed mud on them. Some babies were there too, and they were mostly just rolling around and making a mess. I thought we would get sprayed with mud as one female didn't limpke us and trumpeted and flapped her ears at us. Luckily we emerged unscathed. Later we even saw a newborn elephant who was so young it didn't know how to use it's trunk to drink! It just waded in the water and drank with it's mouth.
I could have stayed and watched the elephants all day but eventually we had to leave. On the way out we saw more lions, from the same pride we saw earlier. This time we saw the male with his majestic mane. He was far off the road as well. We also saw a big journey of giraffes, the landscape in Chobe is less overgrown compared to Kruger so it was easy to spot the giraffes,
We had to drop a few members of our group off at the Zambian border first, which was fascinating as it is a ferry crossing. There is a huge line of trucks waiting to cross into the no mans land where the ferry is, at least 100 of them. The car ferry fits 2 trucks at a time, so these guys could wait days at our guess as the river looks to be at least 2k wide. There is also a speedboat ferry for passengers.
We then went to the Botswana-Zimbabwe border and were driven back to town. We got back with enough time to watch the end of the Brazil vs Holland game and it was great to see Brazil lose. For dinner we went to the Spur in the Kingdom, the hotel next door. We caught the Ghana game at a local bar, the only one we could find in the whole town as I'm sure you van imagine, the place went completely went nuts when Ghana scored first. People were dancing, screaming, singing and high fiving. We fit right in as we were supporting Ghana as well. The end was a bummer as Ghana should have scored on that handball penalty and then missed the penalty shot in extra time and lost on penalty kicks.
Tomorrow I go up in a microlite plane at 8 am to see the falls and then bungee jump later. I'm excited!
Our day started off with an extremely hearty breakfast at the Vic Falls buffet. I had some of everything, including a made to order omlette and it was all fabulous. Another standout was the lemon sugar crepes they had as well. We met our transport van at 7:30am outside the hotel and we were whisked away to the border wi Botswana, about 80km away. We drove through a game park on the Zimbabwean side, but did not see any animals besides baboons and a huge bird called a red roller that looks like a toucan crossed with a turkey. We were dropped off at the Zimbabwean border and were met by the tour operator's Botswanan counterparts on the other side of the gate. We had to all walk through a foot and mouth disinfectant bath before officially entering the border station and getting our passports stamped. US passport holders do not need a visa to enter Botswana, which is nice.
Our group was then driven to the Chobe Marina Lodge, which was our base of operations for the day. The lodge is on the bank of the Chobe River, which flows into the Zambezi. We could see Namibia across the river. The lodge was located in a leafy grove full of vervet monkeys. They amused us with their antics as they scampered around. We noticed that some monkeys were missing hands and we learned that was from crocodiles in the river. Yikes!
We took a river boat cruise up the Chobe for the first part of our tour. The boat fit 10 of us and was a flat bottomed houseboat style craft with a 40hp engine and a canvas roof. We passed an island that belongs to Botswana now, but Namibia and Botswana both laid clamp it and the dispute was actually arbitrated by the Hague. An independent investigation revealed that the channel on the Botswanan was considered the "dominant" channel and thus there is now a Botswanan flag planted on the island as buffalo graze and ducks and geese fly nearby.
We saw several Nile crocodiles sunning themselves on the island as well. The crocodiles were about 3m long and had their mouths open. This was my first time seeing crocodiles so I was really excited. We also saw hippos lying in pods, numbering about 20. On the Botswanan bank we saw warthogs, an elephant, monitor lizards and buffalo. The river cruise was a really unique way to view the wildlife and was very pleasant. The river is also a birders paradise. We also got close to about 10 elephants drinking at the bank. They would suck up water in their trunks and then squirt it in their mouths. We were about 20 feet away! Even though it was a bit chilly with the breeze we all thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. Our guide even let us hop off the boat on the Namibian bank, so we have all now been to Namibia unofficially!
On the way back it was much breezier, so I got very chilly. I would highly recommend anyone doing a river cruise bring a warm coat especially if it is not full sun. We spent about three hours on the river and then returned to the lodge for lunch. We were served some tasty food as well as a sumptuous dessert spread. The sun finally came out after we finished eating so I took the opportunity to sit in the sun and warm up before our afternoon drive.
For our afternoon activity we were driven around Chobe National Park by the same guide who piloted the boat for us. Our drive was jam packed wit incredible sightings. We started off with some lions who had just finished a kill! Unfortunately they were about 200m off the road, hiding in some shrubs so we couldn't get that close. Jimmy was estatic, as they hadn't seen any lions in Kruger, but for me having seen a lion kill up close last year it didn't compare. As we drove further towards the riverbank, we saw a herd of elephants numbering about 65! There were females and adolescent elephants and some tiny babies. They were all going to the river to drink as well. We followed them and saw some of them swimming across the river to the other side. It was a crazy sight to see those giant animals gracefully swimming to the other bank!
As we drove on we got close to another elephant pod, this time they were wallowing in a huge mud puddle. Some rolled and others splashed mud on them. Some babies were there too, and they were mostly just rolling around and making a mess. I thought we would get sprayed with mud as one female didn't limpke us and trumpeted and flapped her ears at us. Luckily we emerged unscathed. Later we even saw a newborn elephant who was so young it didn't know how to use it's trunk to drink! It just waded in the water and drank with it's mouth.
I could have stayed and watched the elephants all day but eventually we had to leave. On the way out we saw more lions, from the same pride we saw earlier. This time we saw the male with his majestic mane. He was far off the road as well. We also saw a big journey of giraffes, the landscape in Chobe is less overgrown compared to Kruger so it was easy to spot the giraffes,
We had to drop a few members of our group off at the Zambian border first, which was fascinating as it is a ferry crossing. There is a huge line of trucks waiting to cross into the no mans land where the ferry is, at least 100 of them. The car ferry fits 2 trucks at a time, so these guys could wait days at our guess as the river looks to be at least 2k wide. There is also a speedboat ferry for passengers.
We then went to the Botswana-Zimbabwe border and were driven back to town. We got back with enough time to watch the end of the Brazil vs Holland game and it was great to see Brazil lose. For dinner we went to the Spur in the Kingdom, the hotel next door. We caught the Ghana game at a local bar, the only one we could find in the whole town as I'm sure you van imagine, the place went completely went nuts when Ghana scored first. People were dancing, screaming, singing and high fiving. We fit right in as we were supporting Ghana as well. The end was a bummer as Ghana should have scored on that handball penalty and then missed the penalty shot in extra time and lost on penalty kicks.
Tomorrow I go up in a microlite plane at 8 am to see the falls and then bungee jump later. I'm excited!
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Just a few days before I arrived in Africa, my parents took a trip to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. They returned full of praise for the trip and their photos raised my interest as well. After chatting with friends of mine who had also been to the area, and given the accessibility of Botswana's Chobe National Park, I decided to visit myself before I left Africa.
The flight from Johannesburg is short, only two hours. As you descend, the pilot banks the plane so that both sides can see the falls from the air. You can see a great gash in the earth with mist billowing upwards. It is quite a view! Visitors have the choice of flying into Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe or Livingston, Zambia to access the falls--we chose the Zimbabwean side because we wanted to stay at the Victoria Falls hotel.
The airport immigration setup is typical. There are two officers handing the whole line, but each has a separate job so your visa requires two people to stamp and sign. We originally had been seated at the back of the plane but I had been warned in advance about the line so we moved up once the plane was in flight. We also filled out the visa forms ahead of time which also helped a lot. We still waited about 30 minutes, but beat most of the people on our flight. A double entry visa for US passports is $45; Zimbabwe recently dollarized so they accept greenbacks. A single entry is $30 but since you can walk to Zambia from the town I felt the double entry was definitely worth it.
After finally making it past immigration, we caught a taxi into town. Our driver chatted with us and told us to keep our eyes open for wild animals crossing the road. There was even a sign warning of elephants crossing! The land here is quite flat and covered in scrub brush and acacia trees. I couldn't see any mountains, or elephants for that matter.
The drive to town took about 25 minutes. Our hotel, the Victoria Falls Hotel, is a gorgeous Colonial era historical building that has absolutely retained its charm. The staff are friendly and helpful without being obsequious and the rooms are decorated in an Edwardian style. My four poster bed even has a mosquito net, although I suspect that's more for ambiance than need this time of year. Nick and Jimmy, my traveling companions (whom you might remember from my post about the USA vs Algeria World Cup game) have a double room that overlooks the gorge and the bridge to Zambia, so we definitely lucked out!
We had high tea on the veranda overlooking the gorge where the Zambezi River flows after it goes over the falls and admired the ambiance and scenery. We had a local Zimbabwean tea that reminds me of a mix of Roiboos and English Breakfast and a tower of tasty eats. There were finger sandwiches (cucumber, lox and ham), scones with jam and clotted cream, and a plate of dessert cakes. The best cake in my opinion was definitely the carrot cake! I felt very posh sitting on the beautiful veranda, overlooking one of the natural wonders of the world and enjoying a thoroughly English tradition.
After the indulgence of high tea, we walked to the bridge to look at the falls. The hotel has a private path to the Zimbabwe border station as well as a security escort. Our guard, Raymond, wax walking with us through the scrub brush just outside the hotel when we heard something large trampling through the bushes and making a squeaking noise. It turned out to be some male warthogs fighting! Raymond led us through the brush until we were about 20 feet away from the warthogs. They were trotting around, tossing their heads and squealing. I wondered if this was a bad idea to be so close, but the warthogs didn't seem to mind. Eventually they moved off and we kept going on the path.
I had been warned to expect a barrage of hawkers selling curios and there were a few but they weren't bad. They virtually ignored me and beelined for Jimmy, I think because he is the oldest and they probably assume he has the most money (sorry, Jimmy, but you do look more dignified than Nick or I!). One guy had a nice elephant carving for only $5 opening price, which temped Jimmy. Raymond told us that the hawkers usually buy their items somewhere else so you can get the same thing for cheaper in a local market and he said their money usually goes straight to drinking. We probably won't buy anything from these guys, but if there are kids selling on Saturday I'll probably try to barter some of the old clothes i brought.
Visitors can leave Zimbabwe and go to the bridge without sacrificing one of their visa exits as long as you do not go through Zambian immigration on the other side, so it is a good chance to view the falls. I also wanted check out the bungee jump, which I want to do. The walk to the bridge from the Zimbabwean border station is about two kilometers, some of which was wet and misty from the falls. We wee walking around 4:30pm so there was almost no vehicular or foot traffic.
We walked across the bridge past the sign in the middle indicating we had technically entered Zambia and gazed out over the falls. Victoria Falls is wider and taller than Niagra Falls so it is truly a wondrous sight. The mist billows up and the air is cool and damp. The roar of the water makes it hard to talk. The walls of the gorge are slick with moisture and thick vegetation. We felt very tiny!
After taking some photos we walked back to the hotel. The border guards checked passports to make sure we hadn't entered Zambia, although the inspection was somewhat cursory. Raymond met us at the railroad tracks and escorted us back to the hotel, the warthogs were now rooting around on the lawn of the hotel in front of the veranda where we had tea. They seemed peaceful enough but there was a staff member with a rifle keeping an eye on matters just in case.
For dinner we ate at Mama Africa based on many recommendations and it was delicious. For appetizers they served us tiny dried fish, dried worms (a black grub of some kind, tasted like salty beef jerky) and boiled peanuts. I had a chicken stew with a peanutty flavor and it was amazing. It came in a tiny cast iron pot. I also tried the local beer, Zambezi, which was watery but complimented the food well enough. We were also treated to live music and a native dance show. Prices were reasonable and I was quite happy with the meal. Weirdly, we had been warned that the place would be crowded but we were one of only four tables at the restaurant. Maybe town will fill up over the weekend but right now it feels deserted.
We were pretty tired so we walked around the grounds a bit to work off dinner and then headed off to bed. Tomorrow we have a day trip to Chobe in Botswana and I am really looking forward to that!
The flight from Johannesburg is short, only two hours. As you descend, the pilot banks the plane so that both sides can see the falls from the air. You can see a great gash in the earth with mist billowing upwards. It is quite a view! Visitors have the choice of flying into Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe or Livingston, Zambia to access the falls--we chose the Zimbabwean side because we wanted to stay at the Victoria Falls hotel.
The airport immigration setup is typical. There are two officers handing the whole line, but each has a separate job so your visa requires two people to stamp and sign. We originally had been seated at the back of the plane but I had been warned in advance about the line so we moved up once the plane was in flight. We also filled out the visa forms ahead of time which also helped a lot. We still waited about 30 minutes, but beat most of the people on our flight. A double entry visa for US passports is $45; Zimbabwe recently dollarized so they accept greenbacks. A single entry is $30 but since you can walk to Zambia from the town I felt the double entry was definitely worth it.
After finally making it past immigration, we caught a taxi into town. Our driver chatted with us and told us to keep our eyes open for wild animals crossing the road. There was even a sign warning of elephants crossing! The land here is quite flat and covered in scrub brush and acacia trees. I couldn't see any mountains, or elephants for that matter.
The drive to town took about 25 minutes. Our hotel, the Victoria Falls Hotel, is a gorgeous Colonial era historical building that has absolutely retained its charm. The staff are friendly and helpful without being obsequious and the rooms are decorated in an Edwardian style. My four poster bed even has a mosquito net, although I suspect that's more for ambiance than need this time of year. Nick and Jimmy, my traveling companions (whom you might remember from my post about the USA vs Algeria World Cup game) have a double room that overlooks the gorge and the bridge to Zambia, so we definitely lucked out!
We had high tea on the veranda overlooking the gorge where the Zambezi River flows after it goes over the falls and admired the ambiance and scenery. We had a local Zimbabwean tea that reminds me of a mix of Roiboos and English Breakfast and a tower of tasty eats. There were finger sandwiches (cucumber, lox and ham), scones with jam and clotted cream, and a plate of dessert cakes. The best cake in my opinion was definitely the carrot cake! I felt very posh sitting on the beautiful veranda, overlooking one of the natural wonders of the world and enjoying a thoroughly English tradition.
After the indulgence of high tea, we walked to the bridge to look at the falls. The hotel has a private path to the Zimbabwe border station as well as a security escort. Our guard, Raymond, wax walking with us through the scrub brush just outside the hotel when we heard something large trampling through the bushes and making a squeaking noise. It turned out to be some male warthogs fighting! Raymond led us through the brush until we were about 20 feet away from the warthogs. They were trotting around, tossing their heads and squealing. I wondered if this was a bad idea to be so close, but the warthogs didn't seem to mind. Eventually they moved off and we kept going on the path.
I had been warned to expect a barrage of hawkers selling curios and there were a few but they weren't bad. They virtually ignored me and beelined for Jimmy, I think because he is the oldest and they probably assume he has the most money (sorry, Jimmy, but you do look more dignified than Nick or I!). One guy had a nice elephant carving for only $5 opening price, which temped Jimmy. Raymond told us that the hawkers usually buy their items somewhere else so you can get the same thing for cheaper in a local market and he said their money usually goes straight to drinking. We probably won't buy anything from these guys, but if there are kids selling on Saturday I'll probably try to barter some of the old clothes i brought.
Visitors can leave Zimbabwe and go to the bridge without sacrificing one of their visa exits as long as you do not go through Zambian immigration on the other side, so it is a good chance to view the falls. I also wanted check out the bungee jump, which I want to do. The walk to the bridge from the Zimbabwean border station is about two kilometers, some of which was wet and misty from the falls. We wee walking around 4:30pm so there was almost no vehicular or foot traffic.
We walked across the bridge past the sign in the middle indicating we had technically entered Zambia and gazed out over the falls. Victoria Falls is wider and taller than Niagra Falls so it is truly a wondrous sight. The mist billows up and the air is cool and damp. The roar of the water makes it hard to talk. The walls of the gorge are slick with moisture and thick vegetation. We felt very tiny!
After taking some photos we walked back to the hotel. The border guards checked passports to make sure we hadn't entered Zambia, although the inspection was somewhat cursory. Raymond met us at the railroad tracks and escorted us back to the hotel, the warthogs were now rooting around on the lawn of the hotel in front of the veranda where we had tea. They seemed peaceful enough but there was a staff member with a rifle keeping an eye on matters just in case.
For dinner we ate at Mama Africa based on many recommendations and it was delicious. For appetizers they served us tiny dried fish, dried worms (a black grub of some kind, tasted like salty beef jerky) and boiled peanuts. I had a chicken stew with a peanutty flavor and it was amazing. It came in a tiny cast iron pot. I also tried the local beer, Zambezi, which was watery but complimented the food well enough. We were also treated to live music and a native dance show. Prices were reasonable and I was quite happy with the meal. Weirdly, we had been warned that the place would be crowded but we were one of only four tables at the restaurant. Maybe town will fill up over the weekend but right now it feels deserted.
We were pretty tired so we walked around the grounds a bit to work off dinner and then headed off to bed. Tomorrow we have a day trip to Chobe in Botswana and I am really looking forward to that!
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Lesotho: Africa's Other Mountain Kingdom
When I was actively competing in geography competitions (yes, I was an extremely nerdy child), Lesotho stuck out to me because it was one of the few countries in the world that is completely surrounded by another. I always wondered why countries such as Lesotho or the Vatican chose to remain independent. This past weekend I finally had the chance to visit Lesotho during my weekend trip to the Drakensberg mountains.
As a prize from my charity swim the day before, I won a free horseback ride with Khotse Horse Trails. At 8:30am I promptly set off for a morning adventure with Emmanuel as my guide atop Midnight, the laziest pony in all of creation. Midnight was so slow and recalcitrant that Emmanuel actually gave me a stick to use as encouragement (NB: I used to ride horses as a child and a light tap with a crop or stick does not hurt the horse, it serves as a reminder to stay on task). Two others were supposed to be on my ride, but they did not show up, so I was happy to have a private session. Emmanuel picked up right away on the fact that I actually knew how to ride, so we cantered off over the brown fields of the berg, with spectacular Monk's Cowl above us. We rode all the way over to the dam where I swam the day before and back. The trail took us through some forested areas, over hills and down dales. I hadn't ridden a horse in a long time, so it was a great experience for me, despite my slow Lesotho pony.
I got back a little stiff, but exhilarated from the early morning exercise. We hopped in the car and headed out of the berg and towards Clarens. Clarens is an artist's town located in a spectacular sandstone butte landscape that reminded me of Arizona. En route, we drove through Golden Gate National Park, which features some of the best red sandstone formations in the area. With the brown fields of the dry season surrounding the cliffs, I felt as though I were in the American West. We drove through around lunch time, but at sunrise or sunset the rocks take on a gorgeous red color. Some of the formations reminded me of an awning overhang, showcasing the sedimentary nature of the rocks. It was altogether unexpected to find it in the middle of Africa to be sure.
Clarens was busy and full of families on Sunday excursions. We stopped at the Purple Onion to get some gourmet foodie stuff (and a decent coffee) and bought some oranges from a vendor who brought them all the way from Brits (up the road from my parent's house in Joburg). They were sweet and juicy.
After enjoying the atmosphere in Clarens, we headed towards Fouriesburg and Lesotho. The nearest border crossing is Calendonspoort and it takes about 40 minutes to reach there from Clarens. Unlike the Swazi and Mozambique border crossings, Calendonspoort is sleepy and quiet. You don't need to show your car registration papers and the Lesotho road tax is only ZAR20. As soon as we crossed the border, we saw plenty of young boys tending flocks in the fields as well as people walking wearing the traditional conical Basotho hat and colorful capes. Lesothans have round, thatched roofed huts like the Zulu, and most villages have both a modern square house with an accompanying round hut next door. We didn't have much time in Lesotho so we decided to drive a ways towards AfriSki, the ski area in the mountains, just to see some of the scenery. It turned out to be a spectacular drive! The mountains are rugged and jagged-shaped. Most fields are terraced, and I suspect in the wet season they would be lush and green. People waved to us as we drove by, and the roads were two lanes, but well paved. Overall I wish we had more time to experience the country, especially since we almost made it to the ski area!
The drive back to Joburg lasted about five hours. We were able to listen to the Germany vs. England World Cup match on the radio, so we only heard about the now infamous "Blunder of Bloemfontein" missed goal call. All in all it was a great weekend, and I suppose if I had the chance I would swim in the dam again.
As a prize from my charity swim the day before, I won a free horseback ride with Khotse Horse Trails. At 8:30am I promptly set off for a morning adventure with Emmanuel as my guide atop Midnight, the laziest pony in all of creation. Midnight was so slow and recalcitrant that Emmanuel actually gave me a stick to use as encouragement (NB: I used to ride horses as a child and a light tap with a crop or stick does not hurt the horse, it serves as a reminder to stay on task). Two others were supposed to be on my ride, but they did not show up, so I was happy to have a private session. Emmanuel picked up right away on the fact that I actually knew how to ride, so we cantered off over the brown fields of the berg, with spectacular Monk's Cowl above us. We rode all the way over to the dam where I swam the day before and back. The trail took us through some forested areas, over hills and down dales. I hadn't ridden a horse in a long time, so it was a great experience for me, despite my slow Lesotho pony.
I got back a little stiff, but exhilarated from the early morning exercise. We hopped in the car and headed out of the berg and towards Clarens. Clarens is an artist's town located in a spectacular sandstone butte landscape that reminded me of Arizona. En route, we drove through Golden Gate National Park, which features some of the best red sandstone formations in the area. With the brown fields of the dry season surrounding the cliffs, I felt as though I were in the American West. We drove through around lunch time, but at sunrise or sunset the rocks take on a gorgeous red color. Some of the formations reminded me of an awning overhang, showcasing the sedimentary nature of the rocks. It was altogether unexpected to find it in the middle of Africa to be sure.
Clarens was busy and full of families on Sunday excursions. We stopped at the Purple Onion to get some gourmet foodie stuff (and a decent coffee) and bought some oranges from a vendor who brought them all the way from Brits (up the road from my parent's house in Joburg). They were sweet and juicy.
After enjoying the atmosphere in Clarens, we headed towards Fouriesburg and Lesotho. The nearest border crossing is Calendonspoort and it takes about 40 minutes to reach there from Clarens. Unlike the Swazi and Mozambique border crossings, Calendonspoort is sleepy and quiet. You don't need to show your car registration papers and the Lesotho road tax is only ZAR20. As soon as we crossed the border, we saw plenty of young boys tending flocks in the fields as well as people walking wearing the traditional conical Basotho hat and colorful capes. Lesothans have round, thatched roofed huts like the Zulu, and most villages have both a modern square house with an accompanying round hut next door. We didn't have much time in Lesotho so we decided to drive a ways towards AfriSki, the ski area in the mountains, just to see some of the scenery. It turned out to be a spectacular drive! The mountains are rugged and jagged-shaped. Most fields are terraced, and I suspect in the wet season they would be lush and green. People waved to us as we drove by, and the roads were two lanes, but well paved. Overall I wish we had more time to experience the country, especially since we almost made it to the ski area!
The drive back to Joburg lasted about five hours. We were able to listen to the Germany vs. England World Cup match on the radio, so we only heard about the now infamous "Blunder of Bloemfontein" missed goal call. All in all it was a great weekend, and I suppose if I had the chance I would swim in the dam again.
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Drakensberg Dam Charity Swim
My father swims with a Masters' swimming club based in Joburg called Wahoo Masters. They participate in outdoor open-water swims around the country and provide some social outlets for the "old folks" so to speak. My dad heard about a charity swim taking place at the Drakensberg Peak Resort in the Central Drakensberg. The course was either 100m or 25m in a dam (aka pond) on the resort property, proceeds would benefit the local SPCA. My father and I had visited this part of the Drakensberg before and found the scenery spectacular, so we decided to return to show my mom around and because we could check out Lesotho as well.
The drive from Johannesburg to the Drakensberg is somewhat boring at the beginning, as you head southeast on N3 through Orange Free State, which is rolling farmland (and brown this time of year). Once you leave N3 at Harrismith, however, things get much more interesting. You pass Sterkfontein Dam, the largest dam in South Africa. It reminded me of Lake Mead since it is surrounded by rocky cliffs and has deep blue water. Just past the dam you pass from Free State into KwaZulu-Natal province. The border is marked by a spectacular and somewhat hairy descent from the highveldt into a rocky valley. You can see the large peaks of the Drakensberg rising in the distance as you wind you way down the escarpment. I had to really pay attention when driving not just because the road is winding, but because a troupe of baboons live in the area and love to sit in the middle!
We got to the resort just before the race began and met up with the rest of the Wahoos participating. The dam was picturesquely located in a valley at the foot of Monk's Cowl mountain. The resort was somewhat "rustic", but there was a fun spirit in the air and lots of people had brought their dogs. Luckily for us the weather was unseasonably warm and sunny, around 24C. The water was about 10C, but the warm temps gave us hope that we would survive! We found out the 25m course was supposed to be for kids only, so we decided to brave the 100m event.
When I put my hand in the water, it didn't seem that cold, so I just jumped in. Well. It was bloody freezing! I started swimming from the shore where we started towards the boma in the middle of the pond that served as the finish line. The water burned and stung my skin. It was too cold to put my face in, so I swam with my head out of the water. About halfway through I felt like I was having an asthma attack. My breath was wheezing and my arms stopped working. I seriously considered asking for evac from the rescue kayak, but decided that would be pretty wimpy so I kept going. Once, when I was much younger, I fell through the ice at Lake George. I managed to pull myself out immediately, so it wasn't that scary or cold, I just remember being soggy and freaking my mother out completely. Well, now I know a little bit what it feels like to drown in icy water because it was sort of like this swim.
When we stumbled out of the water we made a beeline for a big bonfire that was throwing off all kinds of lovely heat. Everyone was a little clumsy, red and blotchy from the cold. We all talked about how that was the worst idea ever! The good news is that we raised a lot of money for the local SPCA and donated several hundred kilos of animal food to them.
The event also had some prize drawings that ranged from free waffles at the Waffle Hut in Winterton to a free weekend at a local resort. Lucky me, I won a free one hour horseback ride at a nearby stable! I arranged to cash in the next day. My dad was quite jealous as they had a lot of donated prizes, but he didn't win anything.
All swimmers got free gluhwein, hot soup and a roll so we snarfed the snacks and lay around in the sun with the whippets that one lady brought. They seemed a bit mystified at our insanity to go in the water. After a while, I punted around the pond on a raft with two of the kids who also participated from the Wahoos. We used a bamboo pole and had a fine time. I felt like Huckeberry Finn and Tom Sawyer with my jeans rolled up an our raft. We saw some fish in the water, including a large one about 16" long. The kids were quite funny, always insisting that they knew exactly how to punt, even though we mostly spun around in circles. We tried to land on the island in the middle of the pond, but it was covered in sharp grass so we hopped back on the raft. "South Africa isn't for wimps," said one of the kids.
We watched South Korea lose to Uruguay in our rustic cabin, which was disappointing but somewhat inevitable. For dinner the swim team had a huge braai. I contributed some beef mince patties, which I had mixed with my super-secret ingredient, Mrs. H.S. Balls chutney. We also had boerwars sausage, shish-ka-bobs, some really good potato salad and one of the Tracys made more gluhwein. Since the temperature dropped considerably after the sun went down, the warm drink was definitely welcome.
One of the other Tracys had brought her four whippet dogs along, all of which were attired in purple fleece jackets. Tracy made a nest on the porch for the dogs with pillows and blankets and they spent the evening happily snuggled together like sausages.
Eventually it was time for USA vs. Ghana. Most of the team were supporting Ghana, as they are the last African team left in the tournament. Apparently they were fated to carry the hopes of the continent as they outplayed the US and won in extra time. We went to bed somewhat disappointed that the US team's World Cup run was over, even though they performed very well and made the second round.
The drive from Johannesburg to the Drakensberg is somewhat boring at the beginning, as you head southeast on N3 through Orange Free State, which is rolling farmland (and brown this time of year). Once you leave N3 at Harrismith, however, things get much more interesting. You pass Sterkfontein Dam, the largest dam in South Africa. It reminded me of Lake Mead since it is surrounded by rocky cliffs and has deep blue water. Just past the dam you pass from Free State into KwaZulu-Natal province. The border is marked by a spectacular and somewhat hairy descent from the highveldt into a rocky valley. You can see the large peaks of the Drakensberg rising in the distance as you wind you way down the escarpment. I had to really pay attention when driving not just because the road is winding, but because a troupe of baboons live in the area and love to sit in the middle!
We got to the resort just before the race began and met up with the rest of the Wahoos participating. The dam was picturesquely located in a valley at the foot of Monk's Cowl mountain. The resort was somewhat "rustic", but there was a fun spirit in the air and lots of people had brought their dogs. Luckily for us the weather was unseasonably warm and sunny, around 24C. The water was about 10C, but the warm temps gave us hope that we would survive! We found out the 25m course was supposed to be for kids only, so we decided to brave the 100m event.
When I put my hand in the water, it didn't seem that cold, so I just jumped in. Well. It was bloody freezing! I started swimming from the shore where we started towards the boma in the middle of the pond that served as the finish line. The water burned and stung my skin. It was too cold to put my face in, so I swam with my head out of the water. About halfway through I felt like I was having an asthma attack. My breath was wheezing and my arms stopped working. I seriously considered asking for evac from the rescue kayak, but decided that would be pretty wimpy so I kept going. Once, when I was much younger, I fell through the ice at Lake George. I managed to pull myself out immediately, so it wasn't that scary or cold, I just remember being soggy and freaking my mother out completely. Well, now I know a little bit what it feels like to drown in icy water because it was sort of like this swim.
When we stumbled out of the water we made a beeline for a big bonfire that was throwing off all kinds of lovely heat. Everyone was a little clumsy, red and blotchy from the cold. We all talked about how that was the worst idea ever! The good news is that we raised a lot of money for the local SPCA and donated several hundred kilos of animal food to them.
The event also had some prize drawings that ranged from free waffles at the Waffle Hut in Winterton to a free weekend at a local resort. Lucky me, I won a free one hour horseback ride at a nearby stable! I arranged to cash in the next day. My dad was quite jealous as they had a lot of donated prizes, but he didn't win anything.
All swimmers got free gluhwein, hot soup and a roll so we snarfed the snacks and lay around in the sun with the whippets that one lady brought. They seemed a bit mystified at our insanity to go in the water. After a while, I punted around the pond on a raft with two of the kids who also participated from the Wahoos. We used a bamboo pole and had a fine time. I felt like Huckeberry Finn and Tom Sawyer with my jeans rolled up an our raft. We saw some fish in the water, including a large one about 16" long. The kids were quite funny, always insisting that they knew exactly how to punt, even though we mostly spun around in circles. We tried to land on the island in the middle of the pond, but it was covered in sharp grass so we hopped back on the raft. "South Africa isn't for wimps," said one of the kids.
We watched South Korea lose to Uruguay in our rustic cabin, which was disappointing but somewhat inevitable. For dinner the swim team had a huge braai. I contributed some beef mince patties, which I had mixed with my super-secret ingredient, Mrs. H.S. Balls chutney. We also had boerwars sausage, shish-ka-bobs, some really good potato salad and one of the Tracys made more gluhwein. Since the temperature dropped considerably after the sun went down, the warm drink was definitely welcome.
One of the other Tracys had brought her four whippet dogs along, all of which were attired in purple fleece jackets. Tracy made a nest on the porch for the dogs with pillows and blankets and they spent the evening happily snuggled together like sausages.
Eventually it was time for USA vs. Ghana. Most of the team were supporting Ghana, as they are the last African team left in the tournament. Apparently they were fated to carry the hopes of the continent as they outplayed the US and won in extra time. We went to bed somewhat disappointed that the US team's World Cup run was over, even though they performed very well and made the second round.
Thursday, June 24, 2010
Goals by Ginger #4: USA vs. Algeria Game Report
Team USA's dramatic injury time win over Algeria was exhilarating and fun! Check out my game report over at Posts By Panos.
Sunday, June 20, 2010
Goals by Ginger #3: USA vs. Slovenia Game Report
I have completed my third "Goals by Ginger" feature over at Posts by Panos detailing team USA's exciting come from behind tie (and what should have been a win) against Slovenia. Check it out!
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